Posted by Liz
It is hard to believe that I am more than half way through my stay in Kosovo, having been in Gjakovë for ten days. Somehow it feels as though I have been here a lifetime. With each day I fall more and more in love with this country, the kosovar people and their culture. As I mentioned in my last post I have come to Kosovo to be trained in the SMF teaching method. The past six days have been especially exciting then, as I have had the opportunity to practice much of what I am learning.
After the group lesson that I gave the male youth volunteers on Tuesday I decided it would be both more effective and more manageable to work with the boys individually. Nick, one of our most enthusiastic and eager volunteers, was first to sign up for a lesson. I had a wonderful time teaching Nick but we weren’t without out challenges. Like many of the volunteers, Nick has trouble matching pitch. To improve his facility with identifying and internalizing pitch, I created an activity using simple pitch patterns. First, I asked Nick to play the pattern on his pennywhistle. Once he was familiar with the pattern, I asked him to sing the pitches in that same key. From there, we moved the pattern through different keys, having Nick produce the starting pitch from a triad given at the keyboard. Completing the exercise was a slow and tedious process but nick remained focused and determined throughout our entire session.
Since our first lesson, I have been standing near Nick during singing class each day. As he has continued to practice the exercises I have assigned him, I have heard a noticeable difference in Nick’s ability to identify and internalize the correct pitches. Hearing Nick sing “Yellow Submarine” in-tune yesterday morning was music to my ears!
Working with Nick was only one of many personally inspiring teaching experiences that I have had this past week. Aside from giving voice lessons to several of the volunteers, I have been busy teaching in the classroom. Mostly, I help to lead and conduct singing classes. I have also been teaching our youngest students music games to help them learn note names and rhythmic values. While I have never entertained the idea of teaching, my time in Kosovo has awakened within me an interest and growing passion for teaching young people. There is nothing quite like watching a child fall in love with music and knowing you had a part in inspiring them to do so.
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Every Saturday Liz and Burim take the youth volunteers on a day-trip to show their appreciation for a week of hard work and dedication. This past Saturday we took the volunteers to Prizren, a city just 45-minutes from Gjakovë. Prizren is often referred to as the crown jewel of Kosovo; it is, to say the least, gorgeous. Unlike Gjakovë, Prizren managed to avoid large-scale damage during the war. Thus, Prizren still has a large number of Ottoman era buildings. I especially loved seeing the Gazi Mehmet Pasha Hammam Turkish baths, which were built in 1573 and the Gazi Mehmet Pasha (or Bajrakli Mosque), which was built in 1566.
After we explored the city, the youth volunteers and I climbed two kilometers up a steep path to the Prizen Kalaja. While no one knows exactly when the castle was built, it has been suggested that the Kalaja dates back to the 6th century. From atop the castle ruins there are breathtaking views of Prizren and the Pashtrik Mountain to north and Zhupa Valley to the south.
Sunday was spent with Leka, one of the SMF youth volunteers, and his lovely family. Before Leka took me to meet his family, I asked him to show me the Hadum Mosque. The Hadum is the oldest mosque in Gjakovë and although it was set afire by Serbian forces during the war, it was beautifully restored in 2005 to resemble its original form. Of equal importance is the graveyard on the Hadum grounds where the most important and influential Albanians of the city were buried.
After we visited the Hadum it was off to Lek’s flat for lunch. I should mention that while there are many things I love about Kosovo, I have developed a particular fondness for traditional Albanian food (my friends and family are completely surprised by this, I know). Moreover, because Kosovars pride themselves on being welcoming and hospitable, sharing food is central to culture here. For this reason, I have found that nothing says “thank you” or “I’m enjoying my time with you” like a big smile from a full stomach.
Luckily for me, Lek’s mother is a wonderful cook. She had spent the afternoon preparing a delicious chicken and rice dish, served with a light soup, fresh bread, feta cheese and tomato slices. Once we were through with lunch, Lek and his family loaded up their car and we headed to liqeni i Radoniqit, a lake just 15-minutes outside of the city. We spent the rest of the afternoon swimming, sunbathing, eating watermelon and drinking Turkish coffee!
That’s all for now – I can hear the midday call to prayer from outside my window, which means I have only a few hours left to prepare for tonight’s lessons.
Peace, love and quarter notes,
Garrett






















































